Test Drive a Matte Hybrid
by Kathryn Brenne
  • Introduction
  • Getting Started
  • Pressing and Seaming
  • Under/Top/Edgestitch
  • Neckband Tutorial
  • Hemming Techniques
  • Shoulder Pads and
    Sleeve Heads
  • Kathryn's Garments



  • sewing tutorials
  • sewing guides 2004-2009
  • inspiration
  • fabric store
  •   
    Getting Started...
    Preshrinking and Fabric Care

    Matte Hybrid is very easy to care for as it is machine washable and does not wrinkle. To preshrink the fabric, machine wash on a gentle setting and hang to dry. Due to the spandex content, it is best to avoid the dryer. Garments can be touched up with a light press or steam.

    Blow Test

    One of the perceived drawbacks of some polyester fabrics is that they do not breathe and can be hot to wear. But this is not always the case, as it depends on the diameter of the fibers and the weave or knit of the fabric. One of my students developed this test for determining how warm a fabric might be when worn: Place a piece of the fabric over your mouth and try to blow through it. If your breath passes through the fabric without too much difficulty, the fabric will be more comfortable to wear than one that leaves your face feeling hot. The dress I created for this article is quite comfortable and not at all hot to wear, because the crepe weave found in Matte Hybrid fabric makes it more breathable. If you do find polyester generally hot to wear, try to choose loose fitting patterns that will allow air flow to cool you.

    Suitable Patterns

    Matte Hybrid is the perfect fabric for travelling. Given its easy care characteristics, versatile weight and non-wrinkling nature, it is suitable for dresses, skirts, tops, pants and jackets. Due to its 20% crosswise stretch, it may be suitable for some patterns that require a knit fabric. If substituting a woven fabric for a ‘knits only' pattern, evaluate the design to determine if lengthwise stretch is required.

    Interfacing

    A bit of interfacing in hems makes the crosswise stretch easier to control and adds a bit of weight to the hem allowing it to hang nicely. Bias knit interfacing is a suitable choice for hems. Light weight tricot knit interfacing can be used in collars and cuffs to prevent a ridge of seam allowances from showing through.

    Needles and Thread

    A microtex needle in size 60 and 100% polyester all purpose sewing thread is suitable for sewing Matte Hybrid. For serging, try wooly nylon in the loopers and 100% polyester serging thread in the needle. The wooly nylon will give a softer edge with less chance of the seam finish showing through to the right side of the garment. For topstitching, my favorite thread is Aurafil Cotton Mako 12 weight used with a size 90 topstitching or Cordonnet needle. Aurafil thread does not shred like many other brands of topstitching thread.

    Machine Set Up

    If you are able to reduce the presser foot pressure on your sewing machine, try reducing it by 20-30%. I found that if there was too much pressure on the fabric as I sewed crosswise seams, the fabric rippled and stretched out. With less pressure it was easier to sew smooth seams. If you cannot reduce the pressure on your presser foot, try using a walking foot, which will allow the fabric to feed evenly without being stretched out. I used the serger as an edge finish and did not have to adjust the differential feed. I used a 3-thread narrow serge to neaten the edges before beginning construction.

      
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