Ponte Perfection
by Kathryn Brenne
  • Introduction
  • Getting Started
  • Seaming
  • Buttonholes
  • Invisible Zippers
  • Elastic Waistands
  • Hemming Techniques
  • Color Blocking
  • Kathryn's Garments



  • sewing tutorials
  • sewing guides 2004-2009
  • inspiration
  • fabric store
  •   
    Invisible Zippers

    invisible zipper

    Invisible zippers are perfect for Ponte garments. To avoid the bubble, which often occurs at the end of an invisible zipper, use this technique:


    sew seam to 1/4" above open zipper pull

    Measure the length of the invisible zipper from the top of the open slider at the bottom of the zipper to the stopper at the top of the zipper. The garment opening should be 1/4" shorter than this measurement as you cannot stitch all of the way to the end of an invisible zipper.

    Interface the zipper opening edges of the garment with 1" strips of bias knit fusible interfacing cut on the lengthwise grain. Cut the strips the length of the opening plus 1". Pink the long edge of the interfacing that sits into the garment.


    remove tape backing and
    position teeth 5/8" in from edge

    Sew the seam up to the marked opening. Press the lower seam open.

    Apply water soluble double sided Wonder Tape to the right side of the zipper tape. On the right side of the garment, tape one side of the zipper to the opening placing the teeth along the 5/8" stitching line.

    Using an invisible zipper foot, sew the open zipper to the garment. Once you reach the closed portion of the seam, keep the teeth to the side of the seam. Stop stitching once the presser foot just touches the slider. Remove the paper backing from the tape and position the second side of the zipper against the right side of the garment. Carefully close the zipper to check alignment. Open the zipper and stitch the second side the same as the first.


    invisible zipper with facing,
    hook and eye closure

    Wiggle the zipper pull up and close the zipper. This is only slightly fiddly the first time. Afterwards the zipper will only open as far as the stitched seam. Cover the closure with a press cloth and press lightly.

    *Tip - when inserting an invisible zipper into a color blocked garment with a seam or a faced edge, the horizontal seam has to be perfectly matched. After you stitch the first side of the zipper and close it to check alignment, put a pin through the zipper tape and seam to hold in place. Machine baste the zipper 1/2" on either side of the horizontal seam to prevent the zipper from shifting during stitching.

      
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